Three Perfect Days in Munich, Whether or Not You Make It to Oktoberfest
Go beyond the beer tents and palaces during your next trip to Bavaria’s capital. And while you’re there, see some of the stunning countryside, too.
For most travelers, Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is known for two things: the revelry of Oktoberfest and the iconic towers of Schloss Neuschwanstein, the 19th-century palace that inspired Walt Disney’s theme park castle. But Munich has so much more to offer. This compact, family-friendly city and its green surroundings are full of parks, museums, and with-it cultural spaces, while retaining a strong sense of southern German culture. It’s here, for example, that you’ll occasionally see locals wearing trachtenmode (traditional dress), just because it’s Tuesday.
Given Munich’s relatively small stature—it’s less than half the size of Berlin, in terms of both area and population—when it comes to tourism, there are a few sites that tend to crop up over and over again. Nymphenburg Palace and the Englischer Garten are indeed beautiful, and there’s plenty to taste at the Viktualienmarkt. And if you are looking to gain a better understanding of the past during your trip, the Dachau memorial can be reached from the city by public transportation in less than an hour.
Aside from these oft-explored attractions, the Munich area draws in travelers with its bakeries, biergartens, spas, and shops. The city’s surrounding countryside is stunning, and with Munich as a home base, you can easily go by public transit to a select destination or two, or make a whole day of it with a rental car.
Whether Oktoberfest is old hat for you, or you’ve yet to hoist a maß (liter stein of beer) at the Hofbräuhaus, there’s so much to see from both Munich’s traditional and trendier sides.
Your trip isn’t complete until you…
See: The view from the pilgrimage path to Kloster Andechs. In operation since the 15th century, this monastery and brewery is one of the last places in Germany where the brewing is still managed by Benedictine monks. Not only is the beer delicious—to say nothing of the schweinshaxe (crispy pork) and enormous pretzels—but making your way to the monastery partly on foot, as pilgrims once did, offers incredible views.
Touch: The thermal waters at Therme Bad Wörishofen. One of the founders of the naturopathic movement, Sebastian Kneipp, was a 19th-century Bavarian priest. Make a day trip from Munich to experience Kneipp’s theory of hydrotherapy at this enormous bath and sauna complex, built around Bad Wörishofen’s natural healing thermal waters.
Smell: The pipe tobacco at the historic Pfeifen Huber, a pipe and pipe tobacco shop that’s been in operation since 1863.
Hear: Music at Alte Utting. A retired 1950 steamer ship mounted on a former railway bridge, Alte Utting is one of Munich’s most unusual cultural projects. Since 2018, the retired vessel and adjacent garden has operated as a casual bar, restaurant, and music venue, hosting acts ranging from indie-folk to disco sets.
Taste: Kaiserschmarrn atXaver’s. This stylish update to a traditional Bavarian wirtshaus, or pub, is beloved for serving up the best of classic regional cuisine along with a few twists, in a cozy, friendly atmosphere. Take a seat and order the kaiserschmarrn (sweet and fluffy shredded pancakes) that are a popular dessert in southern Germany and Austria.
Things to do if you want to get into Bavarian culture
If you’ve come to Germany looking to steep yourself in local food and culture, Munich is where to get it. The city is full of biergartens, wirtshäuser, historic architecture, and beautiful, welcoming outdoor spaces.
“If the weather is good, I recommend enjoying a picnic by the river Isar, the farther south the better,” says Serena Milici, an Italian marketing professional and food blogger who moved from Milan to Munich in 2021. “Some people prefer the Englischer Garten for a picnic, but I’m more of an Isar girl, I find it more relaxing. Just be aware that both areas have an FKK area, meaning you’ll see people sunbathing naked.” (Speaking of local traditions, FKKis short for freikörperkultur, the cultural embrace of open-air nudity that dates back to the late 19th century.) For picnic provisions, head to Dallmayr, a delicatessen that’s been around in different forms since 1700. If you’re looking for a lighter snack, pfeffebreze (black pepper pretzels) are currently a Munich micro-trend—the one from Zöttl, which has locations all around town, is particularly good.
Meanwhile, whether or not you decide to join approximately six million other annual visitors to Oktoberfest, you can still experience what makes the Wiesn so appealing—the dirndl, the lederhosen, and a maß of beer—at any time of year. For a traditional meal, Milici recommends the biergarten in Wienerplatz: “It’s cozy (especially at night with fairy lights), the food is good, and if it starts raining, you can enter the associated restaurant, Hofbräukeller am Wiener Platz.”
9 am – Have a hearty breakfast at theKäfer Stammhaus. Head to the luxurious flagship location of this long-standing gourmet and specialty food purveyor for a sit-down meal of weißwürste (Bavarian sausage) or omelettes—or if you’re in a rush, pick up breakfast to go from the extensive bakery counter. Either way, don’t miss the bakery’s raspberry tart, a Käfer fan favorite.
10 am – Shop for dirndls and lederhosen at family-owned trachtenmode storeAngermaier. There are two Munich locations of this dirndl and lederhosen specialist; the store near the Donnersberger bridge is bigger, while the spot next to the Viktualienmarkt is conveniently central. Either way, you’ll find a range of brands and prices, expert assistance, and even an Oeko-Tex certified line of traditional Bavarian clothing.
12 pm – Climb theBavaria-Statue. Monuments take on a whole new dimension when you can experience them both inside and out. This bronze 19th-century statue of the symbol of the Free State of Bavaria contains a viewing platform inside the head—ascend the narrow stairs for a look over the Theresienwiese (the Oktoberfest site), then check out the adjacent Hall of Fame and its many busts of famous locals.
3 pm – Indulge in kaffeeundkuchen atKuchentratsch. A mid-afternoon treat of coffee and cake is a delightful German tradition, made even tastier here by the mission behind the bakery’s treats. All the bakers at Kuchentratsch are senior citizens, sharing their recipes and staying active in the community by working together in the bakery’s open kitchen.
6 pm – Quaff a glass of wine under the arched ceilings ofPfälzer Residenz Weinstube. Germany’s excellent Pfalz winemaking region is actually in Rhineland-Palatinate, not Bavaria. But this restaurant, devoted to Pfalz wine since 1950, gets its Bavarian bona fides thanks to its location, which is in a section of the Munich Residenz, a huge former royal palace that’s also well worth a visit.
8 pm – Enjoy an arty biergarten experience atMuffatwerk. Next to the Isar River, you’ll find the city’s first organic-certified biergarten, nestled into a larger cultural hub in a former Art Nouveau power plant, which offers an ongoing cultural slate of concerts, parties, dance and theater performances, and more. Check out what’s on during your trip and get tickets in advance to make the most of this uniquely Munich-style melding of old and new.
Things to do for art lovers
Bavaria is Germany’s largest state, and as such, there’s a ton of ground to cover, from the Alps to the medieval town of Regensburg. But if Munich is the primary focus of your trip, and you’d like to make the most of the great outdoors without having to travel too far, we suggest heading south of the city. This beautiful part of Oberbayern was once both a home base and creative inspiration to some of German Expressionism’s most notable artists, and once you lay eyes on the area’s green hills and Alpine vistas, you’ll see why. Wassily Kandinsky, Gabriele Münter, and Franz Marc all lived or passed through this part of Bavaria, even forming a short-lived artists’ group known as Der Blaue Reiter in the towns of Murnau, Sindelsdorf, and Kochel. Today, the best way to see what these artists saw in the area is by getting to know their work in person, as well as enjoying the landscapes that so inspired them. Just keep in mind this slightly packed, whole-day itinerary is best accomplished with a rental car.
9 am – Hike thePartnachklamm. The path through this gorge, a national monument, offers an incredible ratio of beauty to effort. And if you keep going out the other end, you’ll find yourself in the Alpine foothills, in walking distance of a number of alms, small mountain restaurants ideal for a beer and a bite to eat.
12 pm – Have lunch and dessert at theKaiserschmarrn-Alm. This alm is known for its namesake, the fluffy shredded pancakes that are kaiserschmarrn. You can also sample a number of Bavarian specialties here, and if the weather cooperates, enjoy them on the terrace with a great view—just be sure to follow your lunch with a kaiserschmarrndessert.
2 pm – Visit theFranz Marc Museum in Kochel. This scenic museum on a hill overlooking the Kochelsee, or Lake Kochel, is home to an excellent collection of work by Der Blaue Reiter, as well as their Dresden contemporaries from the artist group Die Brücke (which included Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and Paula Mondersohn-Becker), and abstract artists of the post-war era.
4 pm – Eat and take a dip at theKristall Therme spa. Lunch? At a spa? Of course! Bavaria is full of natural thermal waters. The Kristall Therme is located just down the hill from the Franz Marc Museum, with lovely views over theKochelsee. There are three restaurants on site to choose from, along with several pools (including children’s pools) and spa offerings.
7 pm –Stroll the streets of Murnau am Staffelsee. Gabriele Münter, an artist at the forefront of German modernism, made this lovely town both home and subject, in addition to hosting her fellow Expressionists at her Murnau villa. Murnau’s historic center offers a view over the Alps, a plethora of small shops and restaurants, and is still no stranger to modern-day luminaries. Eat dinner at Karg Bräustüberl, where former President Barack Obama once dined during his time in the Oval Office.
Things to do in Munich for families with kids
With a plethora of parks, playgrounds, and family-friendly cultural destinations, Munich is a great destination for tiny travelers. The city isn’t so big that the kids will get too tired hoofing it from one location to another, and if they do, there’s excellent public transit. For family blogger Carina Pietzuch, who writes about local activities, events, and her life as a mother in the city, the options are manifold. To start, “the Deutsches Verkehrszentrum is great with kids,” she says. “It features all kinds of vehicles, old and new, and in the third hall, there is a great indoor play area with building bricks, a big slide, a drawing table, and more.” There are also numerous seasonal events geared toward families with children throughout the year—Pietzuch recommends checking out Beerencafes as well as what’s on at venues like Olympiapark. Finally, to take it all in, climb the church tower Alte Peter. “The view over central Munich is great, and it’s a real adventure for the kids with small, narrow stairs,” she says.
9 am – Have a schmalznudel (Bavarian doughnut) at the historicCafe Frischhut. Here you can eat the schmalznudel, as well as watch the doughnuts being made. And if any family members aren’t satisfied, you’re right next to the Viktualienmarkt‘s many market stalls.
10 am – Get a technology crash course at theDeutsches Museum. From robotics to musical instruments to historic aviation, this huge science museum on Museum Island makes learning about the technology of the past, present, and future fun. Even if your little one isn’t moved by the astronautics or model railway, they’d be hard-pressed not to enjoy the Kids’ Kingdom, the museum’s hands-on floor designed specifically for three- to eight-year-olds.
12 pm – Combine lunchtime and playtime atZum Flaucher. In Germany, biergartens are typically an all-ages affair, and many are set up with kids in mind, with at least a sandbox somewhere on the premises. (And from knödel, or boiled dumplings, to schnitzel, or fried breaded meat, the food is usually pretty kid-friendly, too.) Zum Flaucher has an entire playground on site. Before they head off to play, younger patrons can get in on the bubbly action with a German kids’ classic, apfelschorle, a mix of apple juice and sparkling mineral water.
2 pm – Visit the incredible collections at theState Museum of Egyptian Art. The subterranean maze of rooms at this well-designed museum are devoted to 5,000 years of Egyptian art and artifacts. The kids can truly take it all in, from sarcophagi to the oldest known glass drinking cup in existence.
4 pm – Run off some energy atWestpark. With multiple playgrounds, an East Asian assembly of gardens and architecture, and a few absolutely enormous slides, Westpark is a great kid-oriented alternative to the much more famous Englischer Garten.
6 pm – Eat dinner at the Ratskeller. Housed in the Neue Rathaus, or New Town Hall, the Ratskeller is a tip from Pietzuch, for both the food and the stunning architecture, which you can enjoy whether you eat indoors or out.
Where to stay
Cocoon ($$)
This quirky budget lifestyle hotel has three locations around the city, so you can easily choose a spot that makes sense for your itinerary.
Augustin ($$)
A stylish option geared toward families and groups, Augustin offers a wide range of room sizes with multiple beds. The hotel is also centrally located right next to the Theresienwiese.
MOMA1890 ($$$)
Every guest room is different at this recently renovated, family-owned boutique hotel in the hip, central neighborhood Haidhausen. The hearty breakfast features local and regional products, and later in the day, there’s a comfy lounge that operates on an honor system.
Schloss Elmau ($$$$)
Set in an Alpine valley about sixty miles south of Munich, Schloss Elmau is close to our art lovers itinerary. With multiple spas, indoor and outdoor pools, and access to activities from hiking to rock climbing, the hotel is both a luxury experience and a great place to stay active.
What to know before you go
How to get around
The easiest way to get around Munich is via the interconnected U-Bahn (subway), bus, and tram system operated by the MVV. Fares are based on zones. A single adult ticket for a trip within the city of Munich, called Zone M, is currently 3.90 euros. Be sure to hold onto your validated ticket through the end of your journey, in case you get checked by ticket inspectors. If you’re headed into the suburbs beyond the city, you can take the S-Bahn, and for farther travel into Bavaria and beyond, there are regional trains and the ICE, the intercity express. Alternatively, you might prefer to rent a car.
The currency
Germany uses the euro (EUR). As of September 2024, $1 USD exchanges for .91€.
International adapters you’ll need
German outlets take two types of plugs, Type C, which is a simple plug with two round pins, and Type F, which has the same round pins as well as two grounding clips. The standard voltage is 230V, with a frequency of 50 Hz.
When to plan your visit
Spring and autumn are the best time to experience milder weather. If you’re hoping to visit Munich’s Christmas markets, those typically open in late November and run until December 23 or 24. Despite the name, Oktoberfest is 16 to 18 days long, running from mid-September through early October—but if you are not interested in the festival, you’d be better served coming into town at another time, when Munich isn’t as busy.
Do’s and don’ts when visiting Munich
If you see nude sunbathers in the Englischer Garten or on the banks of the Isar, don’t gawk. Look your drinking companions in the eye when you toast with a “Prost!” A friendly greeting upon entering shops and restaurants is “Servus,” or “Grüß Gott.”
Your fun Munich dinner party fact
One of the most famous sites in the Englischer Garten is a man-made river wave called the Eisbachwelle, which has attracted surfers for the past 40 years. However, riding the wave was actually illegal until 2010. Even though the city now technically permits it, signage warns off newbie surfers, as do the experienced river-wave surfers themselves. The force of the current means the Eisbachwelle isn’t for beginners—as you’ll see if you stop by and watch the pros quickly wipe out.